The last stage requires a permit from the NSW Parks and Wildlife Service, which can be obtained from their office in Merimbula (02 6495 5000). It takes you through the most isolated parts of the south coast, so pack your tent as you head off into the Nadgee wilderness Area. There are two possible routes out of Wonboyn, inland or via the coast. The inland route takes you up into the forested hills behind the village to pick up the dirt access road that leads to the old Merrica River ranger station, reached by a suspension bridge across the river. For the coastal route you retrace your footsteps down the 4WD track towards the coast, turning off to reach the shore at Greenglade. Alternatively, you may be able to arrange a boat transfer from Wonboyn (phone Luke at Wonboyn cabins 02 6496 9131) to the lake entrance at Baycliff and walk along the lake shore then the beach to reach Greenglade
Here, a faint foot-track, marked by pink ribbons leads you over a heavily timbered headland to the mouth of the Merrica River (NB the track has become very overgrown at the beginning after the 2020/21 fires). The tranquil lagoon can be waded to reach a sandy campsite on the far shore, from which a foot-track, then dirt road take you up along a ridge beneath the forest of the Nadgee Nature Reserve. This meets up with a fire trail near Tumbledown Mountain, where you rejoin the inland route.
A steep winding descent down the fire trail takes you towards Newtons Beach, walking beneath the vines of coastal rain forest to cross a ford at Wirra Birra Creek and reach a grassy clearing that provides a possible campsite. Climbing out of these lush coastal flats into a paperbark heathland, the route continues southward. Crossing a series of creekbeds amongst the dense, head-high heath, you finally emerge at the beautiful Little Creek Estuary, with its water's edge campsite overlooking the sandy bar to the ocean. A short but tricky passage around the rocks brings you to the sandbar and southern shore, or you can use the canoe kept at the campsite to cross the lagoon. The track now climbs up into the paperbark and banksia heath behind the low line of cliffs. After a few kilometres you turn inland to follow an old disused road towards Harry’s Hut on the Nadgee River, a more likely source of fresh water than sticking to the coast. The forest becomes taller and more lush as you approach the hut, final reaching the river and its fern-covered banks. You reach the hut in its tiny clearing on the other side by crossing a fallen log – it is a good place to take a break.
From the hut, the track takes you back towards the coast, crossing the low heath of Nadgee Moor to emerge at a wild and isolated section of beach and the broad sand bar blocking Nadgee Lake from the sea. A detour to beautiful Nadgee Beach before continuing on the lake is worthwhile. From the southern end of the bar, a foot track climbs up into the low heath of Endeavour Moor. As you approach Cape Howe, the track becomes increasingly vague in parts and at times tunnels its way through dense thickets of paperbark to finally emerge at Bunyip Hole, a pleasant waterhole set in a depression in the moor.
It is but a short stroll from Bunyip Hole to the beach and a sheltered campsite. A short while late, you round Cape Howe to pass a stone cairn marking the border of New South Wales and Victoria at Conference Point. The massive Cape Howe sand dunes reach the shore not long after the cairn and this provides an entry point to meander through them and merge on the beach further south and follow it to Lake Wau Wauka, a large coastal lagoon, with a lovely campsite on its shore. You are now on the Big Beach and all that lies between you and Mallacoota, 20km away is this long stretch of sand. It is time for meditation on the walk that you are about to complete, as you wander down this pristine coast – off-shore the lighthouse of Gabo Island keeps its watch, while a short detour inland over the dunes is worthwhile to enjoy the setting of freshwater Lake Baracoota, or even camp there.
Finally, you reach the neighbourhood of Lake Mallacoota. In the rare chance that its entry is barred you can walk right into the town of Mallacoota on its southern shore. More usually, you will have phoned ahead to arrange for a boat (Dale at Mallacoota Cruises 0438 580 708) to pick you up at the jetty on its northern shore and take you on a pleasant cruise to the end of your walk. There are two possible pick-up points, depending on time, tide and conditions - one inland from a jetty on the north shore and the other from the sand spit at the end of Big Beach. To reach the inland point, you need to cross Howe Flats, which can be very boggy and wet, while the alternative pick-up is reached at the end of the beach walk. For a walk that has so many water-crossings as a feature, a final crossing of Lake Mallacoota seems an appropriate way to end the section and The Great South Coast Walk.
